Opera Cake

Opera Cake is a harmonious blend of almond joconde, coffee syrup, coffee buttercream, bittersweet chocolate ganache, and a chocolate glaze. When it came time once again for the annual celebration of my birth, a cake such as this was the perfect choice for the occasion.

I am on a mission to create the gateaux that have inspired the great pastry chefs - the intricate, sometimes whimsical, combinations of flavours and textures that were dreamt up by the imaginations of the culinary masters.

Opera Cake tastes best slightly chilled, with the buttercream poised to yield to the warmth of one's tongue, and the ganache luxuriously smooth.


Opera Cake (adapted from Dalloyau from Paris Sweets by Dorie Greenspan)

Yield: About 20 servings

The Joconde (Almond Sponge Cake):

• 6 large Egg Whites, at room temperature
  
• 2 Tbsp (30 g) Granulated Sugar
  
• 2 C (225 g) Ground Blanched Almonds
  
• 2 1/4 C (225 g) Icing Sugar, sifted
• 6 large Eggs
  
• 1/2 C (70 g) All-Purpose Flour
  
• 3 Tbsp (45 g) Unsalted Butter, melted and cooled briefly

The Coffee Syrup:

• 1/2 C Water
  
• 1/3 C Sugar
  
• 1 1/2 Tbsp (7 g) Instant Espresso or Coffee

The Coffee Buttercream:

• 2 Tbsp (10 g) Instant Espresso or Coffee
  
• 2 Tbsp (15 g) boiling Water
  
• 1 C (100 g) Sugar
• 1/4 C (30 g) Water
• Pulp of 1/4 Vanilla Bean
  
• 1 large Whole Egg
  
• 1 large Egg Yolk
  
• 1 3/4 sticks (7 oz; 200 g) Unsalted Butter, at room temperature

The Chocolate Ganache:

• 8 oz (240 g) Bittersweet Chocolate, finely chopped
• 1/2 C (125 g) Whole Milk
  
• 1/4 C (30 g) Heavy Cream
  
• 4 Tbsp (2 oz; 60 g) Unsalted Butter, at room temperature

The Chocolate Glaze:

• 5 oz (150 g) Bittersweet Chocolate, finely chopped
  
• 1 stick (4 oz/ 115 g) Unsalted Butter

1. To make the cake: Position the racks to divide the oven into thirds and preheat the oven to 425 degrees F (220 degrees C). Line two 12 1/2-x15 1/2-inch (31-x-39-cm) jelly-roll pans with parchment paper and brush with melted butter. (This is in addition to the quantity in the ingredient list.)

2. Working in a clean dry mixer bowl fitted with the whisk attachment, beat the egg whites until they form soft peaks. Add the granulated sugar and beat until the peaks are stiff and glossy. If you do not have another mixer bowl, gently scrape the whites into another bowl.

3. In a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the almonds, icing sugar and whole eggs on medium speed until light and voluminous, about 3 minutes. Add the flour and beat on low speed only until it disappears. Using a rubber spatula, gently fold the meringue into the almond mixture, then fold in the melted butter. Divide the batter between the pans and spread it evenly to cover the entire surface of each pan.

4. Bake the cakes for 5 to 7 minutes, or until they are lightly browned and just springy to the touch. Put the pans on a heatproof counter, cover each with a sheet of parchment or wax paper, turn the cakes over and unmold. Carefully peel away the parchment, turn the parchment over and use it to cover the exposed sides of the cakes. Let the cakes come to room temperature between the parchment or wax paper sheets. (The cakes can be made up to 1 day ahead, wrapped and kept at room temperature.)

5. To make the syrup: Stir everything together in a small saucepan and bring to the boil. Cool. (The syrup can be covered and refrigerated for up to 1 week.)

6. To make the buttercream: Make a coffee extract by dissolving the instant espresso in the boiling water; set aside.

7. Bring the sugar, water and vanilla bean pulp to a boil in a small saucepan; stir just until the sugar dissolves. Continue to cook without stirring until the syrup reaches 255 degrees F (124 degrees C), as measured on a candy or instant-read thermometer. Pull the pan from the heat.

8. While the sugar is heating, put the egg and the yolk in the bowl of a mixer fitted with the whisk attachment and beat until the eggs are pale and foamy. When the sugar is at temperature, reduce the mixer speed to low and slowly pour in the syrup. Inevitably, some syrup will spin onto the sides of the bowl - don't try to stir the spatters into the eggs. Raise the speed to medium-high and continue to beat until the eggs are thick, satiny and room temperature, about 5 minutes.

9. Working with a rubber spatula, beat the butter until it is soft and creamy but not oily. With the mixer on medium speed, steadily add the butter in 2-tablespoon (30-gram) chunks. When all the butter has been added, raise the speed to high and beat until the buttercream is thickened and satiny. Beat in the coffee extract. Chill the buttercream, stirring frequently, until it is firm enough to be spread and stay where it is spread when topped with a layer of cake, about 20 minutes. (The buttercream can be packed airtight and refrigerated for 4 days or frozen for 1 month; before using, bring it to room temperature, then beat to smooth it.)

10. To make the ganache: Put the chocolate in a medium bowl and keep it close at hand. Bring the milk and cream to a full boil, pour it over the chocolate, wait 1 minute, then stir gently until the ganache is smooth and glossy.

11. Beat the butter until it is smooth and creamy, then stir it into the ganache in 2 to 3 additions. Refrigerate the ganache, stirring every 5 minutes, until it thickens and is spreadable, about 20 minutes. (The ganache can be packed airtight and refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen for 1 month; bring to room temperature before using.)

12. To assemble the cake: Line a baking sheet with parchment or wax paper. Working with one sheet of cake at a time, trim the cake so that you have two pieces: one 10-x-10-inches (25-x-25-cm) square and one 10-x-5-inches (25-x-12.5-cm) rectangle. Place one square of cake on the parchment and moisten the layer with coffee syrup. Spread about three-quarters of the coffee buttercream evenly over the cake. (If the buttercream is soft, put the cake in the freezer for about 10 minutes before proceeding.) Top with the two rectangular pieces of cake, placing them side by side to form a square; moisten with syrup. Spread the ganache over the surface, top with the last cake layer, moisten, then chill the cake in the freezer for about 10 minutes. Cover the top of the cake with a thin layer of coffee buttercream. (This is to smooth the top and ready it for the glaze - so go easy.) Refrigerate the cake for at least 1 hour or for up to 6 hours; it should be cold when you pour over the glaze. If you're in a hurry, pop the cake into the freezer for about 20 minutes, then continue.

13. To glaze the cake: Bring the butter to a boil in a small saucepan. Remove the pan from the heat and clarify the butter by spooning off the top foam and pouring the clear yellow butter into a small bowl; discard the milky residue. Melt the chocolate in a bowl over—not touching—simmering water, then stir in the clarified butter. Lift the chilled cake off the parchment-lined pan and place it on a rack. Put the rack over the parchment-lined pan and pour over the glaze, using a long offset spatula to help smooth it evenly across the top. Slide the cake into the refrigerator to set the glaze and chill the cake, which should be served slightly chilled. At serving time, use a long thin knife, dipped in hot water and wiped dry, to carefully trim the sides of the cake so that the drips of glaze are removed and the layers revealed.

Keeping: Each element of the cake can be made ahead, as can the assembled cake. The cake can be kept in the refrigerator, away from foods with strong odors, for 1 day, or you can freeze the cake, wrap it airtight once it is frozen, and keep it frozen for 1 month; defrost, still wrapped, overnight in the refrigerator.

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Fudgy Brownies

I have eaten my fair share of brownies over the years, and have just stumbled upon one of the tastiest ones yet. I fall into the crispy-on-top, fudgy-in-the-centre camp, and these brownies, with the addition of chopped chunks of chocolate, strike the perfect balance.

The recipe from King Arthur Flour has a twist in its preparation. The butter and sugar is melted together, and then reheated a second time. This technique results in a thin, crispy, and shiny top crust. These brownies are so delectable that I almost single-handedly devoured the entire pan. Almost...

Fudgy Brownies

Yield: 24 servings

1 cup Unsalted Butter
2 1/4 cups Sugar
1 1/4 cups Dutch-Process Cocoa
1 tsp Salt
1 tsp Baking Powder
1 Tbsp Vanilla Extract
4 large Eggs
1 1/2 cups All Purpose Flour
2 cups chocolate, chopped into chunks, or chocolate chips

Optional: * 1 tsp Espresso Powder; 1 tsp Chocolate Extract

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Lightly grease a 9×13 inch pan or line with foil.

In a saucepan set over low heat, melt the butter. Add the sugar and stir to combine. Return the mixture to the heat and heat until mixture is very hot but not bubbling; it will become shiny looking as you stir it. Heating the butter and sugar a second time will dissolve more of the sugar, which will yield a shiny, crisp top crust.

Crack the eggs into a mixing bowl, and stir in the cocoa, salt, baking powder and vanilla (also, espresso powder and chocolate extract, if using). Mix in the hot butter/sugar mixture until combined. At this point, you can allow the mixture to cool slightly (20 minutes) if you do not want the chocolate chunks to melt into the batter. Otherwise, stir in the flour and chocolate chunks immediately until smooth. Spoon the batter into the prepared pan.

Bake for 28 minutes, until a cake tester inserted into the centre comes out with a few crumbs. Remove from the oven. Cool completely, then cut and serve.

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The Peanut Butter Cup

The Reese Peanut Butter Cup has always been one of my favourite chocolate treats. Although not overly refined or sophisticated in its makeup - little scalloped chocolate cups of sweet and salty peanut butter - the humble peanut butter cup packs a mighty flavourful punch. I recall fondly those days of my childhood when my siblings and I would dress up in Hallowe'en costumes (I still remember the time I went as The Unknown Comic from The Gong Show in a tacky blazer and a paper bag on my head!) to go trick or treating around our neighbourhood. Back in the day (the mid to late 70's), the prized chocolate treats for our Hallowe'en loot bags were: 3 Musketeers, Crunchie, Coffee Crisp, Crispy Crunch, and Reese Peanut Butter Cups. Oh the joy on our faces whenever we discovered one of those in our bag.

So, with a craving for a homemade version of one of my favourite treats, I decided to 'pimp my peanut butter cup', and make it into a huge tart. The addition of graham cracker crumbs into the filling give it the distinct peanut butter cup texture, slightly rough, crunchy, yet smooth.


Peanut Butter Cup

1/2 cup Salted Butter
1 3/4 cup Icing Sugar
1 cup Unsalted Peanut Butter, smooth
3/4 cup Graham Cracker Crumbs
1/4 cup Salted Butter
1/2 cup chocolate, milk and dark mixed

* Note: If you are using salted peanut butter, you can use unsalted butter. Saltiness is key to making the flavour taste right.

Melt 1/2 cup butter in a saucepan over low heat. Remove from heat and stir in icing sugar. Add peanut butter and graham cracker crumbs, stirring until creamy. Spread mixture into 10" tart pan, patting down with your fingers.

In a saucepan over low heat, melt 1/4 cup butter. Add chocolate and stir until incorporated. Remove from heat and continue stirring until chocolate is smooth and shiny. Pour over peanut butter layer, spreading with a spatula to cover. Refrigerate for 30 minutes. Cut into wedges with a pizza cutter or knife. Store in refrigerator.

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Caramel Chocolate Ganache Cake

Caramel Chocolate Ganache Cake , adapted from the Pierre Hermé Faubourg Pavé recipe, is my go-to one whenever a special occasion calls for a decadent treat. The smooth caramel chocolate ganache dances deliciously on the tongue, rich with buttery and sugary goodness.

Cocoa Cakes

1/3 cup + 1 Tablespoon (40g) Dutched Cocoa
¼ cup (35g) Cake Flour
3 ½ Tablespoons Potato Starch
5 ½ Tablespoons (75g) Unsalted Butter
9 large Egg Yolks, room temperature
1 ¼ cups (150g) Sugar
5 large Egg Whites, room temperature

Butter 2 small cake pans (loaf pans, oval pans, or round pans) and line with parchment.

Sift cocoa, cake flour, and potato starch.
Melt butter and set aside to cool until barely warm to the touch.

Beat yolks + ½ cup + 2 TBSP (75g) sugar on med-high speed until pale (5 minutes).

Whip whites on medium speed until soft peaks. Gradually add in remaining ½ cup + 2 TBSP (75g) sugar and beat until firm and shiny.

Fold sifted dry ingredients + ¼ of whites into the yolk mixture. Stir a few tablespoons of the mixture into the cooled melted butter, stirring to incorporate the butter as much as possible. Then, add butter and remaining whites to the yolks. Fold together.

Pour into pans (3/4 full). Bake at 350F (180C) 25 to 30 minutes.

Cool 3 minutes in pans, then unmould onto racks. Cakes can be wrapped in plastic wrap and stored at room temperature 2 days or frozen for 1 month.

Caramel Soaking Syrup

¼ cup (50g) Sugar
2 teaspoons (10g) Salted Butter (or unsalted with a pinch of salt)
6 tablespoons (100g) warm water

Put sugar in a medium saucepan over medium heat.
As soon as the sugar starts to melt, stir with a wooden spoon.
Keep heating and stirring until a rich brown colour.
Standing away from the pan, drop butter into the pan; then, as it melts, stir it into the caramelized sugar.
Stand back and add the water. When the mixture comes to a boil, pull pan from the heat. Allow syrup to cool to room temperature. Syrup can be made up to 3 days ahead and kept in the refrigerator.

Chocolate Caramel Ganache

6 ½ oz (185g) Bittersweet Chocolate, chopped
4 ¼ oz (120g) Milk Chocolate, chopped
2/3 cup (140g) Sugar
1 ½ tablespoons (20g) Salted Butter (or unsalted with a pinch of salt)
1 cup + 2 TBSP (275g) Heavy Cream
12oz (335g) Unsalted Butter, room temperature

Mix the 2 chocolates in a heatproof bowl.
Set a heavy-bottomed medium saucepan over med-high heat and sprinkle 1/3 of sugar over the bottom. As soon as the sugar starts to melt and colour, stir with a wooden spoon until it caramelizes. Sprinkle ½ of the remaining sugar over the caramelized sugar, and, as soon as it starts to melt, stir it into the caramelized sugar in the pan. Repeat with the last of the sugar, and cook until deep brown. Stand away from the pan, and, while still stirring, add salted butter. When the butter is incorporated, add the cream. (If the mixture seizes and clumps, keep stirring and heating until it evens out). Bring mixture to a boil, then remove from the heat.

Pour ½ of the hot caramel over the chocolate, and stir gently, starting in the centre of bowl and working your way out in concentric circles. When the chocolate mixture is smooth, add the remaining hot caramel, stirring from the centre out. Set aside to cool for about 10 minutes, or until slightly warm.

While ganache is cooling, beat unsalted butter, using a paddle attachment or spatula. You want to soften the butter until the consistency of mayonnaise, but you do not want to beat air into it.

Using a spatula or whisk, gently stir butter into the ganache.

You will need to have the ganache at a creamy frosting consistency. Refrigerate for 5 minutes intervals, stirring frequently so it does not become too firm around the edges.

Assembly:

Cut each cocoa cake into 3 layers. Soak each cake layer with Caramel Soaking Syrup and slather on a layer of ganache. Cover entire cake with ganache.

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